I don't think it is much of a secret to those who know me, but I have developed a healthy obsession with staring at maps. I love assessing the various contour lines, looking for decent ridges, crags and features, that when matched up to walking routes, I can plan the annual trip away with a couple of good friends to escape our loved ones, and roam free for a weekend.
Noticing I've had little to write about lately that isn't too morbid, I looked back and started sifting through some old photographs to see where it all began. Although I had been out to the Lake District a few times, the one memory I look on as the foundation of this fascination was a trip back in 2004 with my good friend Jon to visit the Lakes with the idea of climbing something big in mind. What I have learnt is that if Jon never suggested this trip, I’d
have never whimsically visited Ullswater, and Glenridding, and subsequently never fallen in love with the
mountains like I did, and forever will.
This is a trip that felt like hell; shamed me into not being able to
perform to how easy I thought I would be able, yet gave me a hunger to come
back each and every year, try again, and make sure that each walk was improved;
was as much fun, and the stakes increased.
We arrived in a small quaint village at the bottom of Ullswater called
Glenridding. Everywhere I looked the
scenery looked down upon me; all these fantastic peaks surrounding the waters
edge, as well as the ones that enshrouded the village, with the grey mists
sitting on their peaks. A campsite was
found at the top of the village, tents were erected, and we took the bold
decision to go and find the local pub with a healthy stash of food, providing good energy the next day.
Said pub was the Travellers Rest, a small log fired affair that served a
decent tipple. We proceeded to enjoy the hospitality, as well as the
great local ales on tap, and the fine selection of single malt whisky they
store on their shelves. A hearty meal
followed everything down, and we managed to have a rather sound sleep, where
not even the sound of the wind, or local sheep in nearby fields could awaken
us.
For some strange reason that morning, and only on that morning ever
since, we decided that it would be a good idea to take a camping chair with us
to the summit, so we could get an amusing picture with beer in hand, looking
rather grateful for making it the whole way.
This was the first
time, that I came to realise that you pack what you need essentially, not the
blankets, the extra jumpers, coats, beer, and chairs that add for a weighty
walk up the steep climbs that were soon to become evident.
After a slow slog
out of the village, heading along Greenside Road towards the YHA in the valley
by the disused mines, we headed east with a view of the Catstycam ahead. Being the inexperienced walker I was, I
didn’t know how to read a map correctly, so therefore was truly in Jon’s
capable hands, and didn’t know what was ahead, or around me, only that at some
stage we would come along to Helvellyn.
Simply put, I was tired, exhausted, unfit, yet enjoying the views. Jon must have had patience when I
kept asking if anything I saw with a top was where we were headed, but we
weren’t to see Helvellyn properly until we came up to Red Tarn, a large body of water, that is right at the base of the Helvellyn
summit itself.
It was at this
point that we discussed how bad an idea it was to lug the damn chair up the
stairs, even though we did get to share the use of it at Red Tarn over a few
sandwiches.
Instead, the merits of bringing an inflatable raft floated into our
minds, so we could float into the middle of the water, and have a private
lunch, and not have much care in the world for what would lie ahead,
appreciating the stunning view of the third highest mountain in
England with its razor sharp edges of Swirral Edge, and more impressively Striding
Edge on each side.
Helvellyn from Red Tarn Beck |
Jon took the
decision to head towards the summit via Swirral Edge. I guess with hindsight that it came about as
he hadn’t gone that route before. I soon found myself concentrating in
wonderment how we managed to get ourselves onto what felt like a genuine rock
climb (but was merely a scramble), with a huge drop down to Red Tarn behind
us. Either way, it was fun, and using the hands took the mind off the pain in the legs.
It was nervy, we
did well, and were justifiable happy with ourselves at making it to the top of
the edge. The small journey left to the
summit cairn was easy enough, but then cloud came and enveloped us in its
mist. The plan of getting to the top
with this camping chair, with a fine panorama of all the highest Lakeland peaks
was laid to waste. We got little more
than the view of each other, so long as we remained within 5 meters of
ourselves, smirking, drinking a celebratory beer, and posing for a quick snap
in the chair. There were many souls up
on that peak that afternoon, and all found it highly amusing that we would dare
such a trip with the chair, but showed their jealousy at our initiative when
they had to stand around as there was no space left at the lovely cross
shaped wind shelter.
Striding Edge |
The decision was
taken to go back via Striding Edge, and would you believe it, as soon as we
came off the top, the views were crystal clear.
We could see deep into the Grisdale Valley on one side, and look down
upon Red Tarn and see the route we had come. Striding Edge is one of the best
things I have ever seen, and had the nerve to attempt. The sight is something to behold as it drops
and slowly leads to safer ground many hundreds of yards ahead. All complaints of exhaustion were replaced
with complaints of navigating this razor sharp ridge with all my agility and
lack of experience with a massive chair strapped across my back. Dropping in between tightly formed rocks, and
scrambling all hands on board doesn’t make this route easy. That aside though, the reward gave me
something I’ll never forget so long as I live, and I was truly sold to the
merits of this walking lark, as we strode back to Glenridding to be acquainted
with the Travellers Rest again, and the decision to go somewhere else in the
Lake District for more of the same the next day.
I should add, Jon carried the chair up for me |
You boys are as mad as hatters! Wonderful story great photos. I love maps too, I find them endlessly fascinating. I reckon that my Dessert Island Disc book choice would have to be a book of maps... now I sound as mad as a box of frogs!
ReplyDeleteThere may be a few more recollections from the plethora of photo's I have scattered around. I came across an interesting fact the other day; if you were to buy all the OS 1:25,000 Explorer Maps of the UK, then piece it together, it would measure 40m long by 20m wide, and a piece of string around the coast would be 1254m long.
ReplyDeleteI find it amazing that maps were simply created from a principal baseline (in the UK, I think it was about 5 miles near Hounslow Heath), and basic trigonometry.
In 1856 Mount Everest was declared as being 29,002ft, 27ft below what it is thought of today.
My word, that's nearly a blog in a comment.
Nice trip down memory lane. I'm glad that you remember that it was me that lugged that bloody thing up there. . . I also adhere to a more streamlined approach to backing equipment these days. Although, that said, beers on top of Snowdon got a great reaction - and it was well worth the effort!
ReplyDeleteDear boy, we only got more streamlined after the second trip up there, but that's another story for another day,
ReplyDelete